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The Night I Was Mugged in Lisbon Changed How I Think About Travel Safety Forever

The Night I Was Mugged in Lisbon Changed How I Think About Travel Safety Forever

After a terrifying mugging in the Alfama district, I rebuilt my entire approach to personal safety on the road, and the strategies I developed have kept me incident-free across eighteen countries since.

Emma SutherlandJul 03, 20267 min read

It was 11:47 PM on a Tuesday in October 2025, and I was walking up Rua da Esperanca toward my Airbnb with a bag of pastel de nata from a bakery that closed at midnight. Two guys came from behind, one grabbed my crossbody bag strap, and the other pressed something hard into my ribs. I let go. The bag had my passport, my phone, 60 euros in cash, and a Moleskine notebook full of sketches I'd been working on for two weeks. I didn't chase them. I stood on the cobblestones shaking for about ten minutes, then walked to the nearest police station on Rua do Arsenal, where an officer named Antonio spoke decent English and filed a report I rarely heard anything back about. I got a replacement passport at the British consulate three days later. The whole experience cost me about $200 in replacement costs plus the emotional hangover that lasted weeks longer than any physical bruise.

=== the crossbody bag mistake I will never make again === Here's what I got wrong that night: I was walking alone after midnight in a narrow, poorly lit street in a neighborhood I didn't know well, wearing a bag that announced "tourist with valuables" louder than a megaphone. Crossbody bags are fine in daylight in busy areas, but they're a liability in dark streets because the strap makes them easy to grab and the body placement makes em easy to spot. After Lisbon I switched to a slim money belt that tucks inside my waistband, plus a front-pocket wallet that holds only the cash I need for the day—typically 20 to 30 euros, rarely more. My phone goes in my front jeans pocket, rarely a bag or back pocket. These are not revolutionary tips. They're the kind of boring, common-sense advice that you skip reading cuz it sounds too simple to matter, until it does. I talked through the incident with a travel-savvy friend afterward, and she pointed out that I'd broken at least five basic safety rules in a single fifteen-minute walk. Humbling, but useful.

=== the cost of walking alone after midnight === Here's what I got wrong that night: I was walking alone after midnight in a narrow, poorly lit street in a neighborhood I didn't know well, wearing a bag that announced "tourist with valuables" louder than a megaphone. Crossbody bags are fine in daylight in busy areas, but they're a liability in dark streets cuz the strap makes them easy to grab an the body placement makes them easy to spot. After Lisbon I switched to a slim money belt that tucks inside my waistband, plus a front-pocket wallet that holds only the cash I need for the day—typically 20 to 30 euros, rarely more. My phone goes in my front jeans pocket, rarely a bag or back pocket. I talked through the incident with a travel-savvy friend afterward, an she pointed out that I'd broken at least five basic safety rules in a single fifteen-minute walk.

=== why I always screenshot important documents now === Within an hour of losing my bag, I needed my passport number, my Airbnb booking confirmation, and my emergency contact list. I had none of it cuz it was all in the stolen bag or on the stolen phone. Now I keep encrypted copies of my passport, driver's license, travel insurance card, and all booking confirmations in a Google Drive folder I can access from any device. I also email the folder link to myself an to a trusted friend back home. The travel insurance policy I snagged for that trip—which covered theft, by the way—required a police report and the passport number to process the claim, both of which would have been impossible to produce if I hadn't began screenshotting everythin the mornin after. The claim took about three weeks to process and reimbursed me for the passport replacement fee ($175), the 60 euros in cash, and the Moleskine notebook I'd documented with a photo I'd coincidentally posted on Instagram that mornin. Having that paper trail turned a complete disaster into a manageable inconvenience. I also keep a physical photocopy of my passport in a separate bag from the original—it's low-tech but it works when your phone is gone and there's no Wi-Fi.

=== the hostel safety check I do in under sixty seconds === Every single time I check into a fresh room, whether it's a hostel dorm, an Airbnb, or a hotel, I run the same sixty-second check. I lock the door an test the deadbolt. I check that windows on the ground floor or fire escape level actually latch. I locate the nearest exit and count the doors between my room an the stairwell. I look for a safe or lockbox, and if there isn't one, I figure out which piece of furniture I can stash my passport and backup cash in—typically under the mattress or inside a rolled-up jacket in the closet. It sounds paranoid. It's not.

=== the sixty-second check that saved me twice === A hostel in Medellin I stayed at in March 2026 had a door that didn't latch properly, and after my initial check I asked the front desk for a room change, which they gave me without questions. Another hostel in Budapest had a window on the second floor that opened onto a fire escape accessible from the street—I wedged a shampoo bottle under the frame so it couldn't be opened from outside. Sixty seconds of paranoid habits can prevent problems that take six months to resolve. ive been doin this check for eighteen trips straight, an on two occasions it flagged issues that would have been truly dangerous to ignore.

=== the ATM and cash strategy that limits exposure === I used to withdraw large sums of cash at the beginning of each trip an carry it all in my wallet like some kinda mobile bank. In Lisbon that cost me 60 euros. Now I withdraw only what I need for two to three days at a time, use bank ATMs attached to actual bank buildings rather of standalone machines on the street (which are more likely to have skimmers), and keep the bulk of my spending money on a travel debit card with zero foreign transaction fees. Charles Schwab's debit card is the go-to for alot of long-term travelers cuz it refunds all ATM fees worldwide—I've used it in Vietnam, Colombia, Portugal, Hungary, and Japan, and rarely dropped a single fee. The daily withdrawal limit is $500, which is more than enough for two to three days of spending in most countries. If I'm going somewhere truly cash-heavy, like rural Cambodia or parts of India, I carry a backup card in a separate location in case the primary gets lost or skimmed. The goal is rarely having more than $50 in cash on my person at any given moment.

=== the situation awareness habit that takes zero effort === The single most effective safety strategy I've adopted costs nothing and requires no special gear. It's simply paying attention. I don't walk while looking at my phone. I don't wear both earbuds in unfamiliar areas. I scan the street ahead for groups of people loitering without clear purpose, for vehicles pulling up alongside pedestrians, for anyone who seems to be watching me a beat too long. These observations happen passively once you build the habit. After Lisbon I laid out a week in Barcelona's Gothic Quarter—the city's pickpocket capital according to every travel forum on the internet—and I clocked a group of three teenagers working the crowd at La Rambla using a classic distraction technique where one bumps into you while another dips into your pocket. I spotted em because I'd already clocked em circling a Japanese tourist for about five minutes before they moved in. I changed my walking route and avoided the area entirely for the rest of my stay. No vigilante heroics, no confrontation, just a quiet detour round a problem I could see comin from thirty feet away. Situation awareness sounds like somethin out of a spy movie, but honestly it's just not being an oblivious target.